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Alaghband’s Comprehensive Guide to Pearls: Everything You Need to Know About Pearls

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Discover the elegance of pearls with Alaghband’s ultimate guide to these organic gemstones. Pearls, one of the few organic gems, are primarily composed of mother-of-pearl (nacre), which includes calcium carbonate, organic compounds, and water. Despite their Mohs hardness rating of 2.5 to 4.5, pearls are incredibly durable and resistant to crushing. The term “pearl” may originate from the Latin word perna (shell) or sphaerula (spherical shape). One notable example is the Hope Pearl, a remarkable 5 cm, 454-carat pearl housed in the South Kensington Museum in London.

How Pearls Form

Pearls form when an irritant, such as a grain of sand or a parasite, enters the mollusk’s shell and mantle. The mollusk secretes nacre to encase the irritant, resulting in a pearl. This process can create both blister pearls and fully detached pearls.

Types of Pearls

  • Natural Pearls: Formed without human intervention, these pearls are rare and highly valued.
  • Sea Pearls: The highest-quality sea pearls are found in the Persian Gulf and are known as “Oriental Pearls” in the trade. Other significant sources include the Gulf of Mannar, Madagascar, Burma (Myanmar), the Philippines, and the South Pacific. These pearls are harvested by divers.
  • River Pearls: Once common, natural freshwater pearls are now rare due to pollution. They are primarily found in the United States and protected regions in Europe.
  • Cultured Pearls: With the decline in natural pearl supplies, cultured pearls are now widely produced. They can be cultivated in both saltwater and freshwater environments.

Cultured Pearls

  • Saltwater Cultured Pearls: Created by inserting a bead or tissue into the mollusk to stimulate nacre production. This method, originating in 13th-century China, involves using mother-of-pearl beads and mantle tissue to produce round pearls.
  • Freshwater Cultured Pearls: Cultivated in bamboo-frame cages, these pearls have a higher success rate compared to sea pearls. Freshwater mussels have a lifespan of about 13 years and produce pearls for around three years post-cultivation.

Uses and Valuation of Pearls

Pearls have been prized for over 6,000 years for their natural luster and require no additional processing. They are drilled, and imperfections are removed to maintain their quality. Blue pearls should be handled with care as they may change color if drilled. Pearls are often used in earrings, brooches, and other fine jewelry.

Valuation Factors:

  • Shape: Spherical pearls are the most valuable, while button and baroque shapes are less so.
  • Color: Pearls come in a variety of colors including white, pink, silver, cream, golden, green, blue, and black.
  • Size: Pearls are traditionally weighed in grains (1 grain = 0.05g) or carats. Cultured pearl prices are generally based on size.

Caring for Pearls

Pearls are sensitive to acids, perspiration, and cosmetics. Their low hardness makes them prone to scratches. To preserve their beauty, store pearls away from metals and other gemstones, and clean them with a soft, damp cloth.

Differentiating Pearls from Imitations

Various imitations, such as fish-scale pearls and mabe pearls, are not true pearls. Natural and cultured pearls can be differentiated by their density and internal structure. Techniques like X-ray and endoscopic examinations reveal the concentric layers of natural pearls versus the varied structure of cultured pearls.

Mother-of-Pearl

Mother-of-pearl, the iridescent inner layer of mollusk shells, is used in decorative items like buttons, clock faces, and jewelry. It is typically white or dark, with Tahitian mother-of-pearl being notably dark. Paua (abalone) mother-of-pearl from New Zealand is known for its striking blue-green iridescence and is sometimes referred to as sea opal due to its opal-like appearance.

For more insights into pearls and to explore Alaghband’s exquisite pearl jewelry collections, visit Alaghband’s websiteand follow us on Instagram for the latest updates and exclusive offers.

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